The Onbashira Festival, Shimosuwa, Japan Next held in 2016 Every 6 years the sacred corner pillars at the four Shinto shrines of Suwa Taisha in Nagano Japan are replaced, with newly felled logs hewn from selected giant fir trees. . These logs are then man hauled from the starting place to the top of the hill where they are slid down the steep embankment (Kiotoshi), hauled across a river, paraded through the city streets and ceremoniously lifted into place (Tata Onbashira). Of course, the Japanese have transformed this ritual into an extreme art form, elevating it into one of the most spectacular and dangerous events in Japan with thousands of active participants and up to a quarter million spectators attending per day. Once the poles are in their final position, the gods of nature can come down to earth and reside in the pillars. So to participate is to be part of a grand community effort, and show a commitment of faith. For some, it is a means of gaining honour and respect by taking the most dangerous positions riding the logs down the mountainside, or standing on the logs as they are raised into position. And there is much danger. In 20041, 49 participants were hospitalized during Kiotoshi, and 14 during the raising of the pillars. In 2010, I witnessed 2 persons fall to their death as the column was raised and two others fall with serious injury. The Suwa Grand Shrine. The four Shinto shrines that make up Suwa Taisha are divided into the ” Upper Shrine” consisting of the Honmiya and Maemiya shrines in Chino city, and the “Lower Shrine” consisting of the Harumiya (fig2) and Akimiya (fig3) shrines in Shimosuwa. Each shrine has four Onbashira pillars making a total of 16 pillars. The Yamadashi for the Upper Shrine at Chino. The 1st half of Onbashira festival (Yamadashi) took place on 2-4 April 2010. The pillars for the Upper shrine were selected by the townspeople of the Suwa area from the forests near Mt. […]
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Snow monkeys of Jigokudani Japan. During the cold winter months, Japanese macaque monkeys descend from their mountain forest to scavenge for food, and to bathe in the small hot-spring pool at Jigokudani, returning to the forest in the evening. Although wild, these snow monkeys are well habituated to humans, allowing very close approach, providing the visitors follow appropriate protocols e.g., don’t touch, don’t feed, and don’t stare at the monkeys. In fact, they are likely to run across the shoulders of visitors who lean against the lower rock wall of the hot-spring pool. There is a live cam viewing the hot spring pool at http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp/livecam/monkey/index.htm. The best weather conditions for taking mood style photographs occur in midwinter when there is a deep blanket of snow covering the ground, and snow is falling gently with no wind. Under these conditions, the bathing macaques are seen covered in a light dusting of snow against a backdrop of swirling white mist. However, these conditions make it relatively difficult to get to Jigokudani, as it gets dark early, and the final approach to the reserve is on foot along a snow covered footpath that can be icy in parts. Further, being in a sheltered valley at an elevation of 850m it can become extremely cold, so getting to and from the monkey reserve needs appropriate clothing and some forethought. The […]
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Floating markets at Bangkok Damneon Saduak. When I first visited Bangkok in 1965, there was an extensive network of klongs and waterways that were the social centre for many communities. However as Bangkok transformed into a modern vibrant metropolis, the demand for land development forced most of the klongs be filled in to make way for buildings and roads, changing the character of the city. Nevertheless, all the historic monuments, the temples and gold statues of Buddha proudly remain, and there is still present an exotic spirit and an aroma of spices that lingers in the air, although now more dispersed and hidden, amongst the symbols of the modern world. The hustle and bustle and colour of the earlier floating markets can be recaptured at the floating markets at Damnoen Saduak, some 100 kilometres southwest of Bangkok, although now it is just a market and no longer the centre of a lifestyle.The market opens from 5:30am until 11am, but to enjoy the ebb and flow of the market boats and their changing patterns, one should be there between 6:00am and 8:30 before the tourist buses start to arrive. By 9am the main canal is packed with visitors and the local […]
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March of a 1000 Warriors Nikko Grand Spring Festival The Nikko Grand Spring Festival re-enacts the procession of a 1000 samurai escorting the remains of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Japan’s first national Shogun, to his entombment in the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko. As a Warrior, Tokugawa Ieyasu defeated the feudal lords who had battled each other for decades, reduced the Emperor’s role to that of a figurehead, banished foreigners from Japan and elevated his soldiers, the Samurai, to the highest social rank, so founding the present fascination with the code of the Samurai. It is held each year(1) on the 17 and 18th May, and consists of two major events, a Shinto ritual of archery on horseback (Yabusame) on the 17th and the procession of a 1000 warriors on the 18th, see Figs1-2. Impressions: . Most of the procession was performed by local people including children dressed in costume but it had an air about it that lacked authenticity, so it did not stir any deep emotions in me. There were parts which did impress such as the first group with its “The three sacred horses” and mounted riders and their entourage leading the procession that had an air of authority and […]
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Cormorant Fishing on the Nagara River Japan. There are few places where one can observe the ancient practice of fishing using cormorants. One is on the Nagara river at Gifu Japan, and another is on the the Li river at Xinping old town near Guilin China (see this website, Li River China/). Although Cormorant fishing on the Nagara river is no longer commercially viable, it is re-enacted nightly during the summer (May 11-October15) for tourists and for school children, as a means of preserving an imperial tradition that dates back more than 1000 years. The fishermen use a traditional flat wooden boat, with a pole at the bow that holds a wire basket of burning wood to attract Ayu, a variety of fresh-water trout. See fig1. The fishermen also wear traditional costume, consisting of a straw skirt that repels water, a dark cotton long-sleeve vest, and a black linen hat to fend off sparks. There are 6 cormorant boats, and up to 18 spectator boats each capable of seating from 15 to 50 persons. Most of the latter are regular scheduled boats, but some are privately charted boats. All follow a similar route, but the time of departure of the chartered boats is up to the individual. Departure time for the scheduled boats, is 6:15pm for Course A, which includes dinner, and 6:45pm (group […]
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