THE ITALIAN RIVIERA

GENOA, CAMOGLI, & The CINQUE TERRE

(posted 31 August 2018)

1) GENOA

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Genoa remains an enigma to me, as I have not yet worked out its core persona. The city has a colourful history, initially profiting from piracy, and then later by funding Spanish exploration. It had a sizeable noble class with inter-clan and intercity rivalry that led to conflict and probably to its cultural ascendancy as the nobles tried to outdo each other. During the Renaissance, it became an important mercantile trading centre which had the ignoble honour of introducing the black death to Europe when the pestilence was carried on its galleons returning from the Crimea.      
 

2) CAMOGLI

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Camogli, a 40-minute drive from Genoa, is an active fishing village with a spectacular beach waterfront, presenting a curved promenade packed tightly with historic buildings. At the end of the promenade walk through the arch to enter the piazza marking the fishing marina packed full of small boats. Turn right before the archway and walk the small medieval lanes with enormous stairways leading up the hill. What a marvellous place to visit.        

3) THE CINQUE TERRE

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A lot has been written about the five iconic centuries-old coastal villages dotted along a rough portion of the Italian Riviera. They used to rely on fishing, and grapes, with the vineyards being built on the steep terraces of the coastal hills. Then came the train, linking all five villages with the outside world. This improvement in travel, together with hillside erosion and modern market forces has made these practices untenable, and tourism is now its primary industry. So Beautiful: Yes. Crowded: Yes. A must do: Yes.   The question is how to absorb their unique atmosphere without frustration from the large number of people and isolation of the 5 villages.
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